Cosmetic Compositions

ABSTRACT

The present invention generally features novel cosmetic skin and hair care compositions for enhancing the appearance of eyelashes and eyebrows. Specifically, the topical skin and hair care compositions of the invention contain a concentration of at least one of pentapeptide-17 tetrapeptide-12 that provide for thicker, longer and more voluminous appearing eyelashes and eyebrows. The cosmetic formulations of the invention may further include cosmetically acceptable vehicle(s) and/or other skin and hair conditioning agents.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetics are often used to highlight and enhance a person's naturalbeauty. Various trends in fashion encourage the use of a variety ofbeauty enhancing products and practices. The use of makeup is one suchpractice commonly engaged in for the purpose of maintaining a healthy,vibrant and youthful appearance. An assortment of makeup products to beapplied to the face and hair are sold worldwide, these include lipstick,rouge, eye shadow, mascara, facial powders, creams, shampoos,conditioners and the like, all of which are makeup and/or cosmetic itemswell known in the art.

Most of the products currently sold as cosmetics have only a temporaryeffect. They are meant to be applied and then washed off at a latertime. Accordingly, although they are useful in improving the appearance,their effectiveness is severely limited by the short duration of theiruse. Another limitation is that the addition of a cosmetic, if notapplied properly, can give a user an unnatural and/or artificialappearance. Current trends in fashion promote a more natural, as opposedto an artificial, appearance. As a result, appearance enhancing productsthat are designed to promote the body's natural ability to replenish andappear healthier are highly sought after.

One trend currently being followed is to enhance the appearance of theeye-lashes and eye-brows. It is commonly thought that having eyelashesthat appear thicker, longer and give a more voluminous feeling to theeyelashes is aesthetically pleasing. Accordingly, eye care products,such as eyeliners and mascaras, are being marketed for their abilitiesto give a thicker and longer appearance to the eyelashes and a morevoluminous appearance to the eyebrows. However, in order to achievethese effects many mascara products typically incorporate high levels ofwaxes and film forming polymers into the formulation. This generallymakes the washing of the mascara off the eyelashes difficult, which inturn can cause damage to the actual eyelashes. Attempts to solve thisproblem by use of thin moisturizing mascaras have been unsuccessful assuch products are usually not thickening or lengthening in effect and donot wear well because they smudge and smear easily.

Other attempts to give the eyelashes a thicker, longer and morevoluminous appearance without the problems associated with mascara(e.g., smudging and smearing) include the use of “false eyelashes” as acosmetic accessory. False eyelash systems and devices, however, aredifficult to use, hard to remove and may give the user an artificial,prefabricated look and feel.

There is, therefore, an interest in developing cosmetic compositionsthat provide a more natural, healthy and vibrant appearance of theeyelashes and eyebrows that are longer lasting, that do not suffer fromsmudging or smearing, and do not give an artificial appearance whenused. The compositions and methods of the present invention meet theseand other needs.

RELEVANT LITERATURE

U.S. Patent application 20030147823; US Patent application 20040052760.Wolf et al. (2003) Dermatology Online Journal 9(3):7. Sasaki et al.(2005) Experimental Dermatology 14:323.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention generally features cosmetic skin and hair carecompositions for enhancing the appearance of eyelashes and eyebrows.Specifically, the topical skin and hair care compositions of theinvention contain active ingredients that provide for thicker, longerand more voluminous appearing eyelashes and eyebrows. Such ingredientsinclude one or more acylated peptides, e.g. pentapeptide-17 and/ortetrapeptide-12. The cosmetic formulations of the invention may furtherinclude herbal extracts, cosmetically acceptable vehicle(s) and/or otherskin and hair conditioning agents. Additional agents to enhance skinpenetration may be included in the formulation.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS

Topical compositions are provided for enhancing the appearance of hair.The compositions are administered to the region of skin comprising hairfollicles, particularly skin comprising the hair of the eyelashes andeyebrows; and of the scalp. The compositions of the invention provideactive ingredients that are specially formulated to enhance the naturalappearance of the eyelashes and eyebrows. Of particular interest is theapplication of the hair care compositions to the eyelashes, eyebrowsand/or surrounding skin to give the eyelashes and eyebrows a thicker,longer and more voluminous appearance.

Components of the Cosmetic Compositions

Acylated Peptides.

The compositions of the invention comprise at least of one acylatedpentapeptide or tetrapeptide, which may be generally referred to hereinas peptides, at a concentration of from about 0.001 μg/ml to not morethan about 1 μg/ml. Such peptides are acylated, and this comprise atleast one lipid moiety, which moiety may be octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl,myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, arachidonoyl, etc.,which increases the hydrophobicity of the peptide. Myristoylatedpeptides are of particular interest. peptides may be modified with asingle acyl group, or may be provided as a cocktail of different acylgroups. The lipid moiety is usually conjugated to the amino or carboxyterminus of the peptide, usually the carboxy terminus. If unconjugated,the amino terminus may be an amino or an amide group. As used herein,“peptides” refers to both naturally occurring peptides and synthesizedpeptides.

Peptides of interest include pentapeptide-17, which is a five amino acidpeptide having the amino acid sequence SEQ ID NO:1 Ac-KLAKK, where “Ac”refers to an acyl group as described above, e.g. myristoyl, palmitoyl,etc. The peptide may have an amino terminus or an amide group at theterminus.

Another peptide of interest is tetrapeptide-12, which is a four aminoacid peptide having the amino acid sequence SEQ ID NO:2 Ac-KAKA, where“Ac” refers to an acyl group. The peptide may have an amino terminus oran amide group at the terminus.

In some embodiments of the invention a combination of tetrapeptide-12and pentapeptide-17 is used. The ratio of peptides(pentapeptide-17:tetrapeptide-12) on a weight basis is usually fromabout 10:1 to about 1:10; from about 5:1 to about 1:5; from about 5:1 toabout 1:1; from about 5:1 to about 2:1; and in some embodiments is about4:1; about 5:3; about 5:2; or about 3:1.

The amino acid sequence of pentapeptide-17 or tetrapeptide-12 can bealtered in various ways known in the art to generate targeted changes insequence. Such variants will typically be functionally-preservedvariants, which differ in sequence, from the provided peptide but stillretain the desired biological activity of enhancing the naturalappearance of the eyelashes and eyebrows. Various methods known in theart can be used to generate targeted changes.

The peptides of the present invention may be prepared by in vitrosynthesis, using conventional methods as known in the art. Variouscommercial synthetic apparatuses are available, for example, automatedsynthesizers by Applied Biosystems, Inc., Foster City, Calif., Beckman,and other manufacturers. If desired, various groups can be introducedinto the protein during synthesis, e.g. amide groups, acyl groups, andthe like.

Peptide modifications of interest that do not alter primary sequenceinclude chemical derivatization of proteins, e.g., acetylation orcarboxylation. Also included are modifications of glycosylation. Alsoembraced are sequences that have phosphorylated amino acid residues,e.g. phosphotyrosine, phosphoserine, or phosphothreonine.

Also useful in the practice of the present invention are proteins thathave been modified using molecular biological techniques and/orchemistry so as to improve their resistance to proteolytic degradationand/or to acidic conditions such as those found in the stomach, and tooptimize solubility properties or to render them more suitable as atherapeutic agent. For example, the backbone of the peptidase can becyclized to enhance stability (see Friedler et al. (2000) J. Biol. Chem.275:23783-23789). Analogs of such proteins include those containingresidues other than naturally occurring L-amino acids, e.g. D-aminoacids or non-naturally occurring synthetic amino acids.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are for topical useand are to be applied to the hair and skin of the eyelash and eyebrowregions of the face. The amounts and concentrations of the peptides inthe compositions of the invention will vary depending on severaldifferent factors, including but not hereby limited to, the pH andcondition of the skin; whether the skin is oily, dry, or in-between; andthe nature of the interaction between the various other agents to beincluded in the composition, but should be such to be effective while atthe same time reducing the risk of untoward side effects, such asinflammation and the unwanted change in the pigmentation of the hair oreyes. Optimization of the concentration of the active agent(s), suitablefor use with different skin types, which are used within thecompositions of the invention, can be routinely determined by a skilledworker using well known methods that are commonly practiced within theart.

In general, the subject cosmetic compositions will typically contain atleast about 0.001 μg/ml of pentapeptide-17 and/or tetrapeptide-12 as anactive ingredient, at least about 0.01 μg/ml, at least about 0.05 μg/ml,at least about 0.1 μg/ml, at least about 0.5 μg/ml, and not more thanabout 10 μg/ml, usually not more than about 1 μg/ml. The peptides may beprovided as a 500 ppm solution, i.e. 0.5 mg/ml, of which from about 0.01to about 0.5 ml may be diluted into 100 ml. final volume. The peptideagents of the present invention are formulated at an effectiveconcentration within the subject cosmetic compositions, meaning at aconcentration that provides the intended benefit when applied topically.

In order to be effective in stimulating hair growth the composition maybe formulated in such a way as to enable the active agents to penetratethe skin. Accordingly, the composition may be formulated in conjunctionwith a skin penetration enhancing agent so as to better enable theactive agent to deeply penetrate the epidermis of the skin.

In one embodiment of the invention, the formulation comprises one ormore skin penetration enhancing and/or buffering agents. In certainembodiments, a composition of the invention includes as an active agentpentapeptide-17 and/or tetrapeptide-12 in a synergistic combination withat least one skin penetration enhancing agent, and which may alsoinclude a suitable buffering agent.

Skin penetration enhancing agents function to increase the penetrationof the active agents of the composition. A skin penetration enhancingagent, therefore, may be any factor that increases the penetration ofthe skin, preferably with minimal disruption to the acidic pH balance ofthe skin. Preferably, the skin penetration enhancing agent enhances thepercutaneous delivery of the active agent into and through the layers ofthe skin, without providing substantial transdermal transmission of theactive agent into the systemic circulation. The permeability enhancingagents of the invention are physio-chemically stable, do not havepharmacological effects, and have at least reduced irritancy or toxicityto the skin. When present in a composition of the invention, the amountof penetration enhancer is typically from about 1% to about 10% byweight of the total composition weight or from about 2% to about 5% byweight. The formulation and use of skin penetration enhancers in topicalformulations is set forth generally in: PERCUTANEOUS PENETRATIONENHANCERS (Eric W. Smith & Howard I. Maibach eds. 1995); Ghosh, T. K. etal. 17 PHARM. TECH. 72 (1993); Ghosh, T. K. et al. 17 PHARM. TECH. 62(1993); and Ghosh, T. K. et al. 17 PHARM. TECH. 68 (1993), all of whichare hereby incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Suitable skin penetration enhancing agents include those agents that arecapable of reducing the resistance of the skin to the active agent andpromoting the active agent partitioning from the dosage form.Penetration enhancing agents may function in a variety of ways,including via the elution of the lipid and/or lipoprotein structures ofthe stratum corneum, by increasing lipid fluidity (e.g., by disruptingthe tightly packed lipid chains), or by engaging in various proteininteractions that result in a change in protein and/or lipidconfiguration that creates a passage for the active agent (e.g.,pentapeptide-17 and/or tetrapeptide-12). Suitable topical skinpermeability enhancing agents can be routinely selected for a particularuse by those skilled in the art, and especially with reference to one ofmany standard texts in the art, such as Remington's PharmaceuticalSciences, Vol. 18, Mack Publishing Co., Easton, Pa. (1990), inparticular Chapter 87, which is hereby incorporated by reference in itsentirety.

Accordingly, suitable skin penetration enhancing agents include but arenot hereby limited to: sulfoxides, alcohols, polyols, fatty acids,esters, amides, surface active agents (such as pluronics, sulfates,lecithin, docusate sodium, polysorbates), water, and the like.Specifically, skin penetration enhancing agents include but are nothereby limited to dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), N-decylmethylsulfoxide,ethanol, phenyl ethanol, propylene glycol, lauric or myristic orpalmitic or steric fatty acids, lauric acid, sodium laurate, neodecanoicacid, lauryl lactate, methyl laurate, hexamethylene lauramide, leucinicacid, oleic acid, capric acid, sodium oleate, sodium caprate,dodecyl-amine, cetryl lactate, myristyl lactate, isopropyl palmitate orisopropyl myristate esters, urea and derivatives, dodecylN,N-dimethylamino acetate, hydroxyethyl lactamide, lecithin,phyophatidylcholine, sefsol-318 (a medium chain glyceride, surfactants,including polyoxyethylene (10) lauryl ether (Brij 361 R),diethyleneglycol lauryl ether (PEG-2-L), laurocapram (Azone;1,1-dodecylazacycloheptan-2-one), acetonitrile, 1-decanol,2-pyrrolidone, N-methylpyrrolidone, N-ethyl-1-pyrrolidone,1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1-lauryl-2-pyrrolidone, sucrose monooleate,acetone, polyethylene glycol 100-400 MW, dimethylacetamide,dimethylforamide, dimethylisosorbide, sodium bicarbonate, mentane,menthone, menthol, terpinene, D-terpinene, dipentene, N-nonalol,limonene, and various N₇₋₁₆-alkanes in amounts that are safe andeffective.

An exemplary vasodilator that finds us in the cosmetic compositions ofthe present invention is niacinamide (a vitamin B₃ compound), which aidsin the penetration and uptake of active ingredients. The niacinamide maybe used at a concentration of at least about 0.25% to 0.5%, more usuallyat least about 1%, and not more than about 5%.

The normal pH of the skin of the face is between about 4 and about 6.5,though it varies in people of different skin types. The compositions ofthe invention, therefore, in certain embodiments, should be formulatedin such a manner so as to reduce the effects that the actual applicationof the composition has on the pH barrier of the skin and/or should beformulated in a manner so as to increase the penetration of the activeagent. Accordingly, in certain embodiments the typical pH ranges for thecompositions of the invention include a pH of about 3 to about 8, ofabout 4 to about 7, and more typically about 4.5 to about 6.5 or about5. The desired pH ranges of the compositions of the invention can beobtained in accordance with practices well known in the art, forinstance, by the inclusion of various buffering agents, which should beincluded in an amount and concentration to optimize the flux of theactive agent through the skin surface and into the dermal layer of skin,while minimizing any possibility of skin irritation due to a change inthe pH of the skin.

Herbal Extracts

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may comprise one or moreherbal extracts, where the extracts are each present at a concentrationof from about 0.001%, from about 0.01%, about 0.1, to not more thanabout 1% or not more than about 2%. Herbal extracts of interest for usein the present formulation include, without limitation, Cinnamomumzeylanicum bark extract, Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract, andCamellia sinensis leaf extract.

White tea (Camellia sinensis) is an anti-inflammatory agent. Inaddition, the topical use of tea extracts may promote the health andquantity of collagen, thereby maintaining a firm and elastic skin. Theflavonoids and catechols in tea provide it with vitamin P properties andthe tannins in its chemical composition give it astringent properties,whereas the polyphenolic compounds also act as an astringent, but alsoprotect the skin. The Methylxanthines contained in tea also stimulateskin microcirculation and therefore positively influence the tone andhealth of the skin. Horse chestnut seed (Aesculus hippocastanum) mayhave anti-inflammatory properties for skin. Cinnamon (Cinnamomumzeylanicum) may have antimicrobial and antioxidant properties (Cutaneousand Ocular Toxicology, March 2007, pages 227-233; and Letters in AppliedMicrobiology, January 2002, pages 27-31).

Lipophilic Agents

Various lipophilic agents may also be included as cosmetic benefitagents of the present invention in amounts that are safe and effective.A lipophilic agent to be added to a composition of the invention may be,for instance, a water-insoluble (hydrophobic) organic material ormixture of materials that are miscible with acylated peptides and aresuitable for topical administration and formulated to enhance thepenetration of an active agent of the invention. A lipophilic componentmay be in a range about 15% to about 40% by weight of the totalcomposition weight or about 20% by weight.

Suitable lipophilic components are well known in the art and include,but are not limited to, vegetable, nut, and seed oils, such as almondoil, castor oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, jojoba oil,linseed oil, grape seed oil, rape seed oil, mustard oil, olive oil, palmand palm kernel oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil,sunflower-seed oil, crambe oil, wheat germ oil, and cocoa butter; animaloils and fats, such as lanolin, tallow, lard, beef fat, butterfat, minkoil, and fish oils; hydrocarbon and petroleum oils, such as petrolatum,mineral oil, and liquid paraffin. Additional lipophilic componentsinclude higher fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmiticacid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid,undecylenic acid, tall acid, lanolin fatty acid, isostearic acid,linoleic acid and linolenic acid.

The lipophilic component may also include a suitable stiffening agentsuch as isopropyl myristate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol monooleate,glycerol monolinoleate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl linoleate,isopropyl myristate/fatty acid monoglyceride combination, isopropylmyristate/ethanol/L-lactic acid combination, isopropyl palmitate, methylacetate, methyl caprate or methyl laurate.

A composition of the invention may include spironolactone.Spironolactone(17-hydroxy-7α-mercapto-3-oxo-17α-pregn-4-ene-21-carboxylic acidγ-lactone acetate) is classified as an androgen receptor blocking agent(ARB). Specifically, spironolactone inhibits the effect of aldosteroneby competing with it for the binding of the intracellular aldosteronereceptor. Effective topical application of spironolactone may bedifficult because of its insolubility in water. As such, the cosmeticcompositions of the present invention are carefully formulated toprovide spironolactone in an active form, thereby maximizing itseffectiveness. In some embodiments, additional ingredients of thesubject cosmetic compositions will act synergistically withspironolactone. In general, the subject cosmetic compositions maycontain at least about 1%, at least about 2.5%, at least about 5%, andusually not more than about 10% (weight/weight) spironolactone as anactive ingredient.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also be preparedwith microsponges, liposomes, micelles, and microspheres. Microspongesare microscopic, porous spherical sponges that are virtually invisibleto the human eye. Generally, they are porous microspheres having amyriad of interconnected voids of particle size range 5-300 μm.Depending upon the size, the total pore length may range up to 10 ft andpore volume may range up to 1 ml/g. Microsponges have the capacity toentrap an active agent and/or other cosmetically suitable compound suchas an emollient, surfactant, essential oils, sunscreens andanti-infective, etc. and can be used with the active agent(s) of theinvention (e.g., a prostaglandin or an analog thereof) as a topicalcarrier system. The active agent(s) of the invention can be incorporatedin to a microsponge and formulated into creams, lotions and powders.

Microsponges are formulated for prolonged release and can therebyprevent excessive accumulation of ingredients within the epidermis andthe dermis, which allows greater penetration of the active agent.Additionally, because of the sustained release, the use of a microspongeas an active agent carrier can significantly reduce the irritation ofthe active agent without reducing its efficacy. Other forms ofmicrospheres may be incorporated into the present formulations of theinvention. For instance, microspheres formed from lipids, typicallycharged lipids such as phospholipids. Preparation of lipidicmicrospheres is well known in the art.

Liposomes are microscopic vesicles having a lipid wall comprising alipid bilayer, and can be used as drug delivery systems herein as well.Generally, liposome formulations are preferred for poorly soluble orinsoluble cosmetic agents. Liposomal preparations for use in the instantinvention include cationic (positively charged), anionic (negativelycharged) and neutral preparations. Cationic liposomes are readilyavailable. For example,N-[1-2,3-dioleyloxy)propyl]-N,N,N-triethylammonium liposomes arecommercially available. Anionic and neutral liposomes are commerciallyand readily available as well, or can be easily prepared using readilyavailable materials. Such materials include phosphatidyl choline,cholesterol, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, dioleoylphosphatidyl choline,dioleoylphosphatidyl glycerol, dioleoylphoshatidyl ethanolamine, amongothers. These materials can also be mixed withN-[1-2,3-dioleyloxy)propyl]-N,N,N-triethylammonium (DOTMA) inappropriate ratios. Methods for making liposomes using these materialsare well known in the art.

Micelles are known in the art and are comprised of surfactant molecules(described in greater detail herein below) arranged so that their polarheadgroups form an outer spherical shell, while the hydrophobic,hydrocarbon chains are oriented towards the center of the sphere,forming a core. Micelles form in an aqueous solution containingsurfactant at a high enough concentration so that micelles naturallyresult. Surfactants useful for forming micelles include, but are notlimited to, potassium laurate, sodium octane sulfonate, sodium decanesulfonate, sodium dodecane sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfate, docusatesodium, decyltrimethylammonium bromide, dodecyltrimethylammoniumbromide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium bromide,tetradecyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride, dodecylammonium chloride,polyoxyl 8 dodecyl ether, polyoxyl 12 dodecyl ether, nonoxynol 10 andnonoxynol 30. Micelle formulations can be used in conjunction with thepresent invention by formulation with the active agents and othercosmetically suitable agents of the invention so as to be topicallyapplied to the body surface (e.g., a portion of the face).

A composition of the invention may also contain irritation-mitigatingadditives to minimize or eliminate the possibility of skin irritation orskin damage that may result from the penetration of the active agent orother components of the formulation. Suitable irritation-mitigatingadditives include, for example: α-tocopherol; monoamine oxidaseinhibitors, particularly phenyl alcohols, such as 2-phenyl-1-ethanol;glycerin; salicylic acids and salicylates; ascorbic acids andascorbates; ionophores such as monensin; amphiphilic amines; ammoniumchloride; N-acetylcysteine; cis-urocanic acid; capsaicin; andchloroquine. The irritant-mitigating additive, if present, may beincorporated into the formulation at a concentration effective tomitigate irritation or skin damage, typically representing not more thanabout 20 wt %, more typically not more than about 5 wt %, of theformulation.

Cosmetically Acceptable Vehicle

The compositions of the invention comprise a cosmetically acceptablevehicle to act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for an active agent(such as a prostaglandin or analog thereof) of the invention, so as tofacilitate its distribution and uptake when the composition is appliedto the skin and/or hair or scalp. Vehicles other than or in addition towater can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants,thickeners and powders.

The cosmetically acceptable vehicle will usually form from 5% to 99.9%,preferably from 25% to 80% by weight of the composition, and can, in theabsence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition.

The compositions may be in the form of aqueous, aqueous/alcoholic oroily solutions; dispersions of the lotion or serum type; anhydrous orlipophilic gels; emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, whichare obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) orconversely (W/O); or suspensions or emulsions of smooth, semi-solid orsolid consistency of the cream or gel type. These compositions areformulated according to the usual techniques as are well known to thisart.

A topical cosmetic composition of the invention will typically beformulated as a lotions, which are prepared to be applied to the skinsurface without friction, and are typically liquid or semiliquidpreparations in which solid particles, including the active agent(s) ofthe invention, are present in a lipid, alcohol or water base. Lotionsare usually suspensions of solids, and typically, for the presentpurpose, comprise a liquid oily emulsion of the oil-in-water type.Lotions are typical formulations herein for treating the facial andscalp areas, because of the ease of applying a more fluid composition.It is generally necessary that the insoluble matter in a lotion befinely divided. Lotions will typically contain suspending agents toproduce better dispersions as well as compounds useful for localizingand holding the active agent in contact with the skin, e.g.,methylcellulose, sodium carboxymethyl-cellulose, or the like.

Solutions are, typically, homogeneous mixtures prepared by dissolvingone or more chemical substances (solute) in another liquid such that themolecules of the dissolved substance are dispersed among those of thesolvent. The solution may contain other cosmetically acceptablechemicals to buffer, stabilize or preserve the solute. Commonly usedexamples of solvents used in preparing solutions are ethanol, water,propylene glycol or any other cosmetically acceptable vehicle, as forexample, set forth below.

When the compositions of the invention are formulated as an oilysolution or gel, the fatty phase may constitute more than 90% of thetotal weight of the composition.

When the compositions of the invention are formulated as an emulsion,the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight,and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition. Oils, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers incorporated inthe composition in emulsion form are selected from among those usedconventionally in the cosmetic or dermatological field. The emulsiferand coemulsifier may be present in the composition at a proportionranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Exemplary oils which may be used according to this invention includemineral oils (liquid petrolatum), plant oils (liquid fraction of karitebutter, sunflower oil), animal oils (perhydrosqualen(e), synthetic oils(purcellin oil), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluoro oils(perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols, fatty acids (stearic acid) andwaxes (paraffin wax, carnauba wax and beeswax) may also be used as fats.

Emulsifiers which may be used include glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60,PEG-6/PEG-32/glycol stearate mixture, etc. Solvents which may be usedinclude the lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, andpropylene glycol.

An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emollient toprovide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion,depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) ofthe emollient employed. Levels of such emollients may range from about0.5% to about 50%, preferably between about 5% and 30% by weight of thetotal composition. Emollients may be classified under such generalchemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols andhydrocarbons.

Esters may be mono- or di-esters. Acceptable examples of fatty di-estersinclude dibutyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl dimerate, anddioctyl succinate. Acceptable branched chain fatty esters include2-ethyl-hexyl myristate, isopropyl stearate and isostearyl palmitate.Acceptable tribasic acid esters include triisopropyl trilinoleate andtrilauryl citrate. Acceptable straight chain fatty esters include laurylpalmitate, myristyl lactate, oleyl eurcate and stearyl oleate. Preferredesters include coco-caprylate/caprate (a blend of coco-caprylate andcoco-caprate), propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, diisopropyladipate and cetyl octanoate.

Suitable fatty alcohols and acids include those compounds having from 10to 20 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are such compounds such ascetyl, myristyl, palmitic and stearyl alcohols and acids.

Among the polyols which may serve as emollients are linear and branchedchain alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds. For example, propylene glycol,sorbitol and glycerin are preferred. Also useful may be polymericpolyols such as polypropylene glycol and polyethylene glycol. Butyleneand propylene glycol are also especially preferred as penetrationenhancers.

Exemplary hydrocarbons which may serve as emollients are those havinghydrocarbon chains anywhere from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Specificexamples include mineral oil, petroleum jelly, squalene andisoparaffins.

The compositions of the invention may also contain additives andadjuvants which are conventional in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical ordermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents,hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants,solvents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers anddyestuffs or colorants. The amounts of these various additives andadjuvants are those conventionally used in the field, and, for example,range from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.Depending on their nature, these additives and adjuvants may beintroduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase.

Another category of functional ingredients within the cosmeticcompositions of the present invention are thickeners. A thickener willusually be present in amounts anywhere from 0.1 to 20% by weight,preferably from about 0.5% to 10% by weight of the composition.Exemplary thickeners are cross-linked polyacrylate materials availableunder the trademark Carbopol. Gums may be employed such as xanthan,carrageenan, gelatin, karaya, pectin and locust beans gum. Under certaincircumstances the thickening function may be accomplished by a materialalso serving as a silicone or emollient. For instance, silicone gums inexcess of 10 centistokes and esters such as glycerol stearate have dualfunctionality.

Powders may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of theinvention. These powders include chalk, talc, kaolin, starch, smectiteclays, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organicallymodified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica,aluminum starch octenyl succinate and mixtures thereof.

Other adjunct components may also be incorporated into the cosmeticcompositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, opacifiersand perfumes. Specifically, these ingredients may include cosmeticallysuitable additives such as deionized water, hydrolyzedglycosaminoglycan, sodium hyaluraonate, triethanolamine, propyleneglycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, acrylates, C10-C20 alkyl acrylatecrosspolymers, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, panthenol, biotin, sodiumchloride, sodium phosphate and the like. Amounts of these other adjunctcomponents may range anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight of thecomposition. In certain embodiments the compositions of the invention donot include a15-hydroxy-prostaglandinn dehydrogenase inhibitor.

Product Use, Form, and Packaging

In use, a quantity of the composition, for example from about 0.0001 mlto 100 ml, from about 0.001 ml to 10 ml, from about 0.01 ml to about 1ml, typically about 0.1 ml is applied to a site of interest (i.e., skinor hair of the eyelash, eyebrow, and/or scalp) from a suitable containeror applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over the site using asuitable device, usually a fine brush. The product may be specificallyformulated for use as a treatment for a specific area, e.g. theeyelashes, eyebrows, the face, the hair, or the scalp.

The cosmetic composition of the invention can be formulated in any formsuitable for application to the site of interest). The composition canbe packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intendeduse by the consumer. For example, a gel can be packaged in a bottle or acontainer fitted with a fine brush suitable controlled application tothe lash line or eyebrow. The invention accordingly also provides aclosed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition asherein defined and may include a suitable applicator, for instance, afine brush like applicator that is attached to a lid of the container.

The following examples are put forth so as to provide those of ordinaryskill in the art with a complete disclosure and description of how tomake and use the subject invention, and are not intended to limit thescope of what is regarded as the invention. Efforts have been made toinsure accuracy with respect to the numbers used (e.g. amounts,temperature, concentrations, etc.) but some experimental errors anddeviations should be allowed for. Unless otherwise indicated, parts areparts by weight, molecular weight is weight average molecular weight,temperature is in degrees centigrade, and pressure is at or nearatmospheric.

Example 1

Example 1 illustrates topical compositions according to the presentinvention. The compositions can be processed in conventional manner.They are suitable for cosmetic use.

Eyelash Serum Deionized Water qs to 100% Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17and/or Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-  0.2% 12 (500 ppm) SodiumHyaluronate(and) Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans  3.0% PropyleneGlycol(and) Diazolidinyl   1% Urea(and)Methylparaben, (and)PropylparabenC12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate  0.5% Panthenol, 50% soln.  0.5%Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer 0.44% LinoleicAcid(and)Linolenic Acid(and)Tocopherol  0.1% Biotin 0.01% CamelliaSinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract 0.01% Aesculus Hippocastanum (HorseChestnut) Seed Extract 0.01% Cinnamomum Zeylanicum (Cinnamon) BarkExtract 0.01% Butylene Glycol(and)Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment 0.01%Sodium Phosphate, Dibasic 0.01% Sodium Chloride, 25% soln. 0.07%Triethanolamine, 99% 0.60% Vitamin B-12 (0.10% soln.) 0.05% Folic Acid0.001% 

Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-12 has the amino acid sequence SEQ ID NO:2Myr-KAKA-amine, with a chemical formula C₃₂H₆₃N₇O₅ and a molecularweight of 625.90. Myristol Pentapeptide-17 has the amino acid sequenceSEQ ID NO:1 Myr-KLAKK-amide, with a chemical formula of C41H81N9O6, anda molecular weight of 796.16. The blend is 80% of Myristoylpentapeptide-17 and 20% Myristoyl tetrapeptide-12. The peptides areprovided at 0.5 mg/ml.

In some embodiments a cosmetic preparation for use on eyelashes has aformulation as follows:

Marini Lash Current Minimum Maximum MATERIAL NAME % (w/w) % (w/w) %(w/w) DEIONIZED WATER q.s To 100% 98.3509 73.88 SODIUM HYALURONATE(and)HYDROLYZED GLYCOSAMINO 3.00 0.05 10.00 GLYCANS PROPYLENEGLYCOL(and)DIAZOLIDYNYL 1.00 0.50 1.50UREA(and)METHYLPARABEN(and)PROPYLPARABEN C12-C15 ALKYL BENZOATE 0.500.01 3.00 PANTHENOL 0.50 0.01 3.00 ACRYLATES/C10-C30 ALKYL ACRYLATESCROSSPOLYMER 0.44 0.01 3.00 MYRISTOYL PENTAPEPTIDE-17 and/or 0.20 0.010.50 MYRISTOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-12 at 500 ppm LINOLEIC ACID(and) LINOLENICACID(and)TOCOPHEROL 0.10 0.001 2.00 BIOTIN 0.01 0.001 2.00 CAMELLIASINENSIS (WHITE TEA) LEAF EXTRACT 0.01 0.001 2.00 AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM(HORSE CHESTNUT) 0.01 0.001 0.50 SEED EXTRACT CINNAMOMUM ZEYLANICUM(CINNAMON)BARK EXTRACT 0.01 0.001 0.50 BUYTLENEGLYCOL(and)SACCHAROMYCES/COPPER 0.01 0.001 0.50 FERMENT SODIUMPHOSPHATE, DIBASIC 0.01 0.001 0.10 SODIUM CHLORIDE, 25% 0.07 0.001 0.10TRIETHANOLAMINE, 99% 0.60 0.10 2.00 VITAMIN B12(0.1% SOLUTION) 0.050.001 1.00 FOLIC ACID 0.001 0.0001 0.05 TOTAL = 100.00%

HYDRO-GEL I ingredient % w/w DI Water 71-82 Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17and/or Myristoyl 0.2% Tetrapeptide-12 (500 ppm) Butylene Glycol 5.00PPG-5-Ceteth 20 5.00 Glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 1.20 Triethanolamine 99%1.20 Methylparaben 0.30 Polysorbate 20 0.25 Disodium EDTA 0.10 GermallII 0.10 Total 100.00

HYDRO-GEL II ingredient % w/w DI Water 71-82 Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17(and) 0.2% Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-12 (500 ppm) Butylene Glycol 5.00PPG-5-Ceteth 20 5.00 Glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 1.20 Triethanolamine 99%1.20 Methylparaben 0.30 Polysorbate 20 0.25 Disodium EDTA 0.10 GermallII 0.10 Total 100.00

HYDRO-GEL ingredient % w/w DI Water 71-82 Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17(and) 0.2% Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-12 (500 ppm) Butylene Glycol 5.00PPG-5-Ceteth 20 5.00 Glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 1.20 Triethanolamine 99%1.20 Methylparaben 0.30 Polysorbate 20 0.25 Disodium EDTA 0.10 GermallII 0.10 Total 100.00

ANHYDROUS SERUM ingredient % w/w Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 (and) 0.2%Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-12 (500 ppm) Cyclomethicone 62-72 IsopropylMyristate 5.00 Octyl Palmitate 3.00 Polyglycerol-6 Dioleate 5.00Butylene Glycol 4.00 Dimethicone, 100 cst 5.00 Beeswax 0.30Propylparaben 0.20 Fragrance 0.10 Total 100.00

OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION Ingredient % w/w DI Water 65-75 MyristoylPentapeptide-17 (and) 0.2% Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-12 (500 ppm) Carbomer0.30 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Glycerin 3.00 Polysorbate 20 or 80 2.50Propylene or Butylene Glycol 2.00 Methylparaben 0.30 Triethanolamine 99%0.30 Isopropyl Myristate 5.00 Octyl Palmitate 3.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00Dimethicone 100 cst 0.50 Beeswax 0.30 Propylparaben 0.10 Germall II 0.10Fragrance 0.10 Active Agent (e.g., Bimatoprost) 0.1 to 10% Total 100.00

WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION ingredient % w/w DI Water 55-65 MyristoylPentapeptide-17 (and) 0.2% Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-12 (500 ppm) DisodiumEDTA 0.10 Glycerin 3.00 Propylene Glycol 2.00 Sodium Chloride 0.70Methylparaben 0.30 Cyclomethicone 14.00 Isopropyl Myristate 5.00 OctylPalmitate 3.00 Dimethicone Copolyol 2.50 Dimethicone 100 cst 0.50Beeswax 0.30 Propylparaben 0.10 Germall II 0.10 Fragrance 0.10 Total100.00

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification areherein incorporated by reference as if each individual publication orpatent application were specifically and individually indicated to beincorporated by reference.

Although the foregoing invention has been described in some detail byway of illustration and example for purposes of clarity ofunderstanding, it will be readily apparent to those of ordinary skill inthe art in light of the teachings of this invention that certain changesand modifications may be made thereto without departing from the spiritor scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:
 1. A cosmetic composition for topical applicationcomprising: at least one of acylated tetrapeptide-12 or acylatedpentapeptide-17 at a concentration of from about 0.001 μg/ml to about 1μg/ml; and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
 2. The cosmeticformulation of claim 1, comprising from about 0.001 μg/ml to about 1μg/ml of pentapeptide-17, wherein pentapeptide-17 is a five amino acidpeptide having the amino acid sequence Ac-KLAKK.
 3. The cosmeticformulation of claim 2, wherein pentapeptide-17 comprises an amideterminus.
 4. The cosmetic formulation of claim 2, whereinpentapeptide-17 comprises an acyl group selected from an octanoyl,decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl, linoleoyl, orarachidonoyl group.
 5. The cosmetic formulation of claim 2, whereinpentapeptide-17 comprises a carboxy terminal myristoyl group.
 6. Thecosmetic formulation of claim 2, further comprising from about 0.001μg/ml to about 1 μg/ml of tetrapeptide-12, wherein tetrapeptide-12 is afour amino acid peptide having the amino acid sequence Ac-KAKA.
 7. Thecosmetic formulation of claim 6, wherein the ratio ofpentapeptide-17:tetrapeptide-12 is from 10:1 to about 1:10.
 8. Thecosmetic formulation of claim 7, wherein the ratio ofpentapeptide-17:tetrapeptide-12 is about 4:1.
 9. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 1, wherein the pH of said composition is in therange of about pH 3 to about pH
 7. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim1, provided in a closed container having a fine brush applicator.
 11. Amethod for treating skin, scalp or hair comprising: applying to saidskin, scalp or hair a composition comprising: at least one of acylatedtetrapeptide-12 or acylated pentapeptide-17 at a concentration of fromabout 0.001 μg/ml to about 1 μg/ml; and a cosmetically acceptablevehicle.
 12. The method of claim 11, wherein the cosmetic formulationcomprises from about 0.001 μg/ml to about 1 μg/ml of pentapeptide-17,wherein pentapeptide-17 is a five amino acid peptide having the aminoacid sequence Ac-KLAKK.
 13. The method of claim 11, whereinpentapeptide-17 comprises an amide terminus.
 14. The method of claim 11,wherein pentapeptide-17 comprises an acyl group selected from anoctanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl,linoleoyl, or arachidonoyl group.
 15. The method of claim 11, whereinpentapeptide-17 comprises a carboxy terminal myristoyl group.
 16. Themethod of claim 11, wherein the cosmetic formulation further comprisesfrom about 0.001 μg/ml to about 1 μg/ml of tetrapeptide-12, whereintetrapeptide-12 is a four amino acid peptide having the amino acidsequence Ac-KAKA.
 17. The method of claim 11, wherein the ratio ofpentapeptide-17:tetrapeptide-12 in the cosmetic formulation is from 10:1to about 1:10.
 18. The method of claim 11, wherein the ratio ofpentapeptide-17:tetrapeptide-12 in the cosmetic formulation is about4:1.
 19. The method of claim 11, wherein the pH of said composition isin the range of about pH 3 to about pH
 7. 20. The method of claim 11,wherein the cosmetic formulation is applied to the skin comprising thehair of the eyelashes and/or eyebrows.